EBike Configurator  

Choosing the right options

Choosing the right mix of options for an ebike is not easy, particularly when our needs are unique. This tool is designed to assist the consumer with solid information about optional choices, and to demonstrate the effects of each decision. Please select a tab to learn more about each major component. When finished, select the link to EBike Configurator Part 2 to generate a complete assembly tailored to your specific needs.

At Kinaye, we offer two distinct frame models.

Mongoose Vinson Fat Bike

The Vinson is the perfect frame for beach, trail, and compact snow due to the lightweight Aluminum frame and high floatation balloon tires. It has superb handling qualities and is affordably priced to fit cost-conscious riders. The Vinson also makes for a great commuter bike with its’ on/off-road duality. Average safe speed for this ebike fits perfectly between 24 to 32 mph.

  • Aircraft Aluminum Frame
  • SuspensionBalloon Tires
  • Optional Fork Suspension
  • Battery enclosed in soft all-weather bag
  • Dual Stainless Steel Torque Arms
  • Cruise24-32 mph
  • Top-Speed40 mph
  • Affordable low cost commuter
  • Beach, Compact Snow, and Trail

Vector Mountain Bike

The Vector is designed for commuters, though easily doubles as an off-road warrior. The utility of this steel-constructed full-suspension frame can be dedicated to workhorse mountain climbing, to high-speed commuter, or as an Enduro for a little of both. For commuting, average safe speed is 30-50 mph. Need more power? Order up as a 2-Wheel Drive for unbelievable traction and total road control.

  • Precision Steel Frame
  • Full-Suspension
  • Optional 2WD
  • Battery protected by framework
  • Integrated Cro-Moly Steel Torque Arms
  • Cruise35-50 mph
  • Top-Speed60 mph
  • Powerful options
  • Mountain Warrior, Urban Commuter

All ebikes require a certain amount of Power; we call it "Torque" and "Speed". Both use Power, though with opposite results. Torque is strongest when the wheel begins at Zero, whereas Speed is highest at the top-end limit of the motor.

  • Too little torque causes the bike to struggle, like being overweight or in sand;
  • Too much torque causes the wheels to spin out, leading to loss of control like an overpowered racing bike.
  • Too little speed and the bike can't keep up with traffic;
  • Too much speed can lead to dangerously sensitive throttling and loss of control, again like an overpowered racing bike.

Instead, we prefer to design bikes that are balanced and well-suited for their primary use. Therefore if we're going to ride off-road and climb steep hills, then we want more torque, less top-speed, and a motor that can handle the load without overheating. Conversely, if we are commuting, then we want more top-speed and less torque. If we are commuting in hilly conditions, like San Francisco or Seattle, then we might consider adding a second motor to provide extra torque and yet retain our speed goals.

Therefore, selecting the right motor for the job then becomes very important. The Width of the motor and the number of Windings determines how much Torque and Speed is created. At Kinaye, our MXUS motors exceed industry-standard efficiencies, meaning they run cooler and perform better than our competitors.

We’ve put together a simple demonstration using our motor selection of how small changes in Battery Voltage and Tire Size affect (theoretical) Top Speed.


Application Mounting Dropout MFR Width Rev, %Eff Wind PP Kv Kt MPH Torque
MtB, Road, 2WD 110: Std FWD, 135: FB FWD/Std RWD 110 & 135 MXUS 28 V2, 87% 5T 23 11.92 0.80 0 20.0
MtB, Fat Bike, Trail Fat Bike; 170: RWD Single, 190: RWD 7/8-Speed 170/190 MXUS 45 V2, 87% 6T 23 5.93 1.61 0 40.26
Fat Bike, Dual Use Fat Bike; 170: RWD Single, 190: RWD 7/8-Speed 170/190 MXUS 45 V2, 87% 5T 23 7.11 1.34 0 33.58
Dual Use Std RWD, FB FWD 135/142/150 MXUS 45 V3, 90% 4T 23 8.89 1.07 0 26.86
Commuter Std RWD, FB FWD 135/142/150 MXUS 45 V3, 90% 3T 23 11.86 0.81 0 20.13
Fast Commuter Std RWD 150 QS 50 V3, 90% 4T 16 11.5 0.83 0 20.76

Color Guide: Green = Better, Yellow = Lesser.


Demo Notes:

  • Application: Suggested uses; varies widely. Generally, Dual Use motors have the widest possible applications, whereas those in the extreme have more specific uses.
  • Mounting: Where best suited. Std = Standard MtB, and FB = Fat Bike.
  • Dropout: Dropouts vary in width depending on frame type. Except for the 28mm V2 where we offer both FWD and RWD versions, each motor listed has one axle length long enough to accommodate several drop-out widths.
  • MFR: Manufacturer. MSUS and QS are the best, most efficient, most affordable motors that Kinaye offers.
  • Width: Stator Width in millimeters (mm). Narrow = more speed/less torque, wider = more torque/less speed.
  • Rev, %Eff: Revision / % Efficiency. V3 is improved over V2, and more importantly, all V3 models meet or exceed 90% efficiency meaning that more energy is converted to useful power instead of wasteful heat.
  • Wind: Number of copper conductor turns around a "tooth" on the Stator; less turns = more speed/less torque, and more turns = more torque, less speed.
  • PP: Pole Pairs. The number of magnet pole pairs on the Rotor; less poles = motor spins faster/produces less torque, more poles = motor turns slower/produces more torque.
  • Kv: Motor Velocity Constant, Speed = RPM/Volt; lower values = slower spinning motor, higher values = faster spin.
  • Kt: Motor Torque Constant, Torque = Nm/Amp; lower value = less torque, higher = more torque.
  • MPH: Theoretical (unloaded) top-speed of the motor based upon input.
  • Torque: We have calculated the theoretical Torque value at 25 Amps to demonstrate the relationship between properties of Speed and Torque for each motor.
  • Battery Voltage: Directly affects Motor Speed.
  • Tire Diameter: Also directly affects both Speed and Torque; smaller = faster acceleration though less top-speed, and larger = moderate acceleration though higher top-speed.

Special Note: Downhill/Freeride Forks also have 110 dropouts with 15 and 20mm axles. These forks are not suitable for Front Wheel Drive (FWD) because there is no practical way to capture the axle.

Disclaimer: Just to be clear – this is a demo and the results are theoretical. Can we really take a MXUS 28 V2 5T up to 79 mph? No; it would overheat before it got there. Select the next tab to learn about the forces that work against range and capacity.

Power is derived from the Battery which deliveries two important features:

  • Current, called Amps – aids in producing Torque, the Starting Power
  • Potential, called Volts – aids in producing and sustaining Speed over time

More Amps translates directly into more climbing ability and strong acceleration. More Volts causes the motor to spin faster, creating more speed. There is a fine balance between the two factors where we get the best of both worlds, for we desire batteries that can produce a lot of power quickly and consistently over long periods of time. We have found that the best batteries are Lithium Polymer (LiPo); they are the lightest industry standard battery chemistry made, plus having a long and well-understood performance history. Although large capacity batteries weigh quite a bit and can be expensive, they extend and augment range and capacity for hill climbing and long distance requirements. At Kinaye, we offer three battery solutions.

  • 60V - 25Ah (1.48 KWh)
  • 72V - 25Ah (1.85 KWh)
  • 72V-37.5Ah (2.775 KWH)
The total battery power is determined by two factors:
  • Volts X Amp-Hours = Power, measured in kilowatt-Hours
  • C-Rating; The discharge rate of a battery. RC cars, planes, boats, and racing bikes use High-C batteries which are expensive. At Kinaye, we use lower rated packs which are more stable and less expensive.

In the Example below, we use the same motor information, plus additional controls to vary Battery Power, Speed, and Resistance to demonstrate the affects upon Range. Note that larger battery packs are required to meet extreme power demands, such as mountain climbing and high-speed commuting.

Application MFR Width Rev, %Eff Wind W, C W, M Kv Kt MPH Torque M WHr Drag Range
MtB, Road, 2WD MXUS 28 V2, 87% 5T 1000 2500 11.92 0.80 0 20.0 0 0 0
MtB, Fat Bike, Trail MXUS 45 V2, 87% 6T 3000 5000 5.93 1.61 0 40.26 0 0 0
Fat Bike, Dual Use MXUS 45 V2, 87% 5T 3000 5000 7.11 1.34 0 33.58 0 0 0
Dual Use MXUS 45 V3, 90% 4T 3200 8000 8.89 1.08 0 26.86 0 0 0
Commuter MXUS 45 V3, 90% 3T 3200 8000 11.86 0.81 0 20.13 0 0 0
Fast Commuter QS 50 V3, 90% 4T 7200 >10000 11.5 0.83 0 20.76 0 0 0
Battery Power (Wh): 
Resistance (Drag)

Green = Better, Yellow = Lesser, Orange = Not Continuous, Red = Danger


Demo Notes:

  • Demo presumes bike weighs 25 lbs., and the motor + controller with associated electricals weigh 25 lbs. The actual values will vary. All motors can handle momentary loads up to Maximum (peak) for a brief time, however: Orange means the motor load exceeds the continuous rating, Red means that the motor load exceeds the peak rating and there is a chance of damage if pushed too long.
  • New Columns:
    • W, C: Watts-Continuous: The motor has been validated to run at the given power level without overheating for an infinite time.
    • W, M: Watts-Maximum: We call this "Peak Wattage", momentarily needed to start up a hill or to navigate quickly.
    • Torque: This was introduced in the previous tab, though now it is interactive. The values may appear misleading; let's clarify with an example:
      1. Set Battery Volts to 70.3, and lower Throttle to 50%: Note that the 1st motor MXUS 28mm V2 5T moves at 26 mph and makes 8 Nm of Torque. Note the next motor below, the MXUS 45mm V2 6T moves at a pokey 16 mph and produces only 3 Nm of Torque.
      2. Move the Throttle to 100%. The 2nd motor is now moving at 26 mph, the same as the 1st motor in the previous setting, though now the 2nd motor is producing more than twice the Torque.
      3. Conclusions: The 1st motor is better at speed, commuting, while the 2nd motor is better for hill climbing.
    • M WHr: Measured in Watts, this is the power required to run the motor at the given speed. Faster velocity requires more power exponentially, and thus can dramatically affect range.
    • Drag: Measured in Watts, this is the power required to overcome physical resistances such as headwind, hills, and adverse road conditions.
    • Range: Measured in Miles. The amount of Drag directly impacts the Range over time. Reduce Throttle and Weight to increase Range. Increase Battery Capacity and/or Voltage to add more Range.
  • Battery Power: Voltage X Capacity determines the total Battery Power, measured as Watt-Hours (Wh).
    • Battery Voltage: We already discussed how voltage affects speed. Here we use it to determine the total power capacity. Series Cell Count (S) is given as Volts / 3.7
    • Battery Capacity: Total Battery Capacity given in Amp-Hours. The C-Rating is also important as it affects momentary need, like starting from a complete stop or punching the throttle for instant acceleration. Larger batteries are better at handling momentary loads.
  • Velocity: Controlled by Tire Size and Throttle position (percent of maximum Speed).
    • Tire Size: We already talked about how tire size affects speed. It can also affect Range. Smaller tires compliment Torque for hill climbing, however larger tires can extend Range.
    • Throttle: Percent of Maximum Speed. Slow down to increase range.
  • Resistance (Drag): The total combined force of all resistances, measured in Watts.
    • Slope / % of Grade: Level ground allows us to reach the maximum distance, while mountainous roads require lots of Power for ascension. For scale, 0 = level ground, 6-8% = most freeway mountain passes, 10-18% = Seattle-SF city hills, > 18% = extreme mountaineering. Batteries can be extended by dropping gear and pedaling more.
    • Headwind: Except for tailwind, all wind produces drag. Speed (going faster) also produces wind/drag. Unlike road grade, the level of resistance due to Drag is exponential. In high-wind conditions, it is better to lower speed, drop gear, and pedal more.
    • Terrain: A measure of "rolling resistance" between having "a perfect day for riding" to "grinding through the muck and mud". Derived from both a combination of having the correct tires and the actual roadway conditions, the effects can be very profound and equal to hill climbing. In our experience, all ebikes have some small amount of rolling resistance. Ideal Smooth/Frictionless Roadway = 0, Wet Road = 4, Compact Dirt = 8, Grass/Compact Beach = 12, Compact Snow/Gravel = 16, Unconsolidated/Muddy/Sandy = 20, Deep Snow/Sand/Mud > 25.
    • Rider Weight: This can include cargo. Below we have provided a summation of all the weight which actually has a large effect upon escalating resistances of Slope and Terrain.
    Negative Drag can occur with Tail Wind, and/or Downhill Slope. If the amount of Negative Drag exceeds the amount of power required to run the Motor, then the Range becomes infinite.
  • Special note on Regen Braking: Regenerative Braking is the technique of using the motor as a generator to produce a braking force. Although important, Regen does not significantly contribute to extending the range of any electric vehicle. Typically, if starting and stopping at the same elevation, the value of recovered energy through braking varies between 2 to 6% depending on traffic, and cannot be banked upon.

Disclaimer: Just to be clear – this is a demo and the results are theoretical.

The Controller is the device that uses Battery Power to create Torque and Speed with the motor; it splits DC-current into modulated 3-Phase current that to the motor appears as AC. Some low-end controllers create an AC waveform that looks squarish on a Scope; we call that Trapezoidal, and the shape causes the motor to create unmistakably loud pinging that over prolonged use – like riding cross-country, can produce Tinnitus. More sophisticated controllers use smooth Sinusoidal waveforms that are much more efficient and quieter. The ultimate in Controller technology though is to have a Sinusoidal Controller with FOC (Field-Oriented Control): The Force that causes rotation is optimally and precisely applied at 90° to the Load using real-time high-speed computation. FOC controllers are the very best in quality and features at this time.

In addition, controllers emanate in various capacities depending on the need. At Kinaye, we offer both low-cost low-power controllers, as well as high-quality high-powered sino controllers suitable for either mountain climbing, fast commuters, and for 2-Wheel Drive!

We also offer both standalone and integrated Displays; these are specialized mini-computers linked to the Controller for real-time presentation of system status. Some of these computers offer rich programmable features and can supply auxiliary power to additional systems like phones and GPS. If your needs are thrifty and basic, stick with the Cycle Analyst V3. With the MXUS Sino Controller and Adaptto, the Displays are part of the integrated package and deliver the best utility.

Use the matrix below to understand the best options available for each unique frame.

Affordable KT Sine Wave Controller shown here paired with the KT-LCD3 Display.

The industry standard Cycle-Analyst V3, side-by-side with the newcomer Display common with all Adaptto controllers.

Adaptto MINI-E Controller for economy and light power, next to the Adaptto MAX-E Controller for high-performance requirements.

Mongoose Vinson Fat Bike

  • Motors
    • MXUS 45mm V2 12X5T Fat Motor
    • MXUS 45mm V2 10X6T Fat Motor
  • Rims
    • 26" Bicycle Fat Rims
    • 19" Moto Rims
  • Controllers
    • KT Sine Wave 60A, 75V Max., KT-LCD3 Display
    • Xie Chang Square Wave 65A, 95V Max., CA V3 Display
  • Batteries
    • 52V - 25Ah (1.3 KWh) Panasonic NCR18650GA Cells, 14S7P
    • 60V - 20Ah (1.2 KWh) Panasonic NCR18650PF Cells, 16S7P

Safety and Lighting Kits

At Kinaye, we are always thinking about how to give riders the very best experience, and strongly believe in Safety-First.

  • Standard with every frame: Red Rear Reflector.
  • Upgrade: Basic Lighting Package with Headlight & Taillight.
  • Upgrade: DOT Lighting Kit with Headlight, Tail & Brake Light, Turn Indicators Front & Rear, Horn, & dashboard controls.

Vector Full Suspension Ebike

  • Motors
    • MXUS 28mm V2 12X5T
    • MXUS 45mm V3 16X4T
    • MXUS 45mm V3 21X3T
    • QS 50mm V3 Extra 4T
  • Rims
    • 26" SunRingle MTX33 Bicycle Rim
    • 24" HALO SAS Bicycle Rim
    • 19" Moto Rim
    • 17" Moto Rim
  • Controllers
    • KT Sine Wave 60A, 75V Max., KT-LCD3 Display
    • Xie Chang Square Wave 65A, 95V Max., CA V3 Display
    • Adaptto Mini-E 65A 90V Max. with Adaptto Display*
    • Adaptto Midi-E 120A, 90V Max. with Adaptto Display*
    • Adaptto Max-E 140A, 90V Max. with Adaptto Display*

    * All Adaptto Controllers can be universally paired to create a 2WD system; mix and match requirements as needed.

  • Batteries
    • 52V - 25Ah (1.3 KWh) Panasonic NCR18650GA Cells, 14S7P
    • 60V - 20Ah (1.2 KWh) Panasonic NCR18650PF Cells, 16S7P
    • 72V-34Ah (2.775 KWH) Panasonic NCR18650GA Cells, 20S10P
    • 72V-32Ah (2.38 KWH) Multistar LiPo, 20S4P

Perhaps the most overlooked asset of an Ebike is its’ most important feature next to a handlebar and seat. For when yer out of power, how else are you going to get back home? But more to the point – the function of a bike is to pedal. If you can’t pedal, and if the frame doesn’t have pedals – then legally it’s not a bike; that’s called a moped or a motorcycle.

What we want to do here today is provide clarity on how to configure the ebike so a person can still pedal while under power. Here’s the reasons why:

  • Pedaling is healthy. Good for circulation, lowers heart risk, adds oxygen to the brain, lots of good stuff there.
  • Pedaling extends the range of the Battery. Pedal soft or hard with the motor; let your body be the guide – it knows what it wants. Whatever is contributed will measurably offset forces of drag.
  • Pedaling allows for a way to get back home in case of low or depleted Battery. We want that for sure.
  • Some places in the world – like Europe, require pedaling before power can be applied to the motor; this is called a “Pedelic” system. At Kinaye, we sell the component that is required to create a Pedelic ebike configuration. It’s very inexpensive and easy to install.
  • And, there are some places in North America where it is better to pedal in public view to avoid scrutiny by dubious legal dragnets, you know… them redneck towns.
  • Finally, the best reason of all for pedaling is to demonstrate that – yes, it can be done comfortably, at 38 mph.

Let’s get our Kinaye on then and figure this out as we walk through the various options.

A Bit of History and Context

Next to fire, and perhaps beer, the Wheel is the most important invention of all time. The earliest examples of gears date from the 4th century BCE in China. Before that, friction rollers were used, however they tend to slip under load and are unable to maintain constant ratios. Think: belt-driven pulley. Gears on the other hand are toothed wheels that are able to positively transmit mechanical power and torque from one wheel to another.

The Chain Drive is a way of transferring that power from one place to another. The oldest known application of a chain drive appears in the Polybolos, a repeating crossbow described by the Greek engineer Philon of Byzantium (3rd century BC). Imagine - in one hundred years we go from Gears to Chain Drive, however it would take over a 1000 years before the first continuous and endless power-transmitting chain was depicted in writing.

Today the Roller Chain is the most efficient mechanism for transferring power from one ring to another. It was originally conceived by Leonardo da Vinci in the 16th century, although it would take nearly 300 years before industrial production made use of it. The most common forms of application are… go on, guess: Bicycles, motorcycles, cars, and conveyors. Bicycles made use of roller chains just 10 years after the production of roller chains (reference: 1890s Golden Age of Bicycles). In that time derailleurs, freewheels, and pneumatic tires were introduced to the mainstream. Can you imagine the game-changing liberation of personable mobility?

Theory of Gears

It begins with understanding Levers and Ratios. With Levers, the longer the lever is past the fulcrum, the greater the lifting force. A seesaw is a great example of this. Gears are like levers organized in a circle. But before we discuss that, consider that Gears work like pulleys:

  • Imagine a barn with a single pulley above the door slung with a rope attached to say… a bale of hay. The pulley provides a 1:1 Ratio of lifting ability, same as if we pulled straight up on the rope (if we ignore gravity).
  • Link a second pulley and we have compounded (doubled) the lifting ability.
  • Each pulley we add further multiplies the lifting ability, like extending a lever; 3X, 4X, 5X, and so on.

Gears have teeth. Each tooth on the gear acts like adding another pulley; the more teeth we add – the greater the lifting ability. Now wrap a toothed rope, a “chain” around the gear. Relatively speaking, for the same chain-speed, more teeth cause the gear to rotate slower than a gear with less teeth. The difference between the two speeds is called “Gear Ratio”, also called “speed ratio” and “gear train”. Mathematically this is expressed as ωa/ωb = R, where ω = angular velocity, and the a and b part are the identities of the rotating elements; input:output. We can have a ratio of 1:1 where both are equal, our single pulley. We can also have 1:4, read aloud it sounds like “1 to 4”, meaning the input rotates 1X for every 4X rotation of the output.

Cranks, Chainrings, and Cogs

Forward motion begins with pedaling; they are attached to the Crank Arm: A long lever that is attached to the Crank Axle. This axle lives inside a “Bottom Bracket”; a special assembly of bearings and capture that, unlike almost every other part of a bicycle, does not loosen or hardly ever require maintenance through its’ lifetime. The Axle transfers mechanical power to the Chainring on the right side of the bike frame. There can be more than one chainring; normally though the count is 1 or 2 or 3 of varying sizes. If there is more than one chainring, then a front derailleur is involved to facilitate transfer of power from one ring to the next.

The Chainring is connected to the rear cog via the roller chain. The Rear Cog spins freely in a forward direction, ala coasting. Inside the cog are “pawls” which grasp an internally rotating gear fixed to the axle when the rider applies sufficient pressure on the chainring to cause engagement. The number of pawls varies between 2 and 3; more means better quality and load handling. It is the pawls that are the source of the clicking sound when coasting.

Cogs can be single-speed, meaning they have only one gear, or they can be multispeed, and if so – the common counts are 7, 8, 9, 11. For the majority of all ebike installations, 7-speed is typically the most that is able to fit within the wheel mounting space, called a “dropout”: More on that in a bit.

Chainring ratios vary from 20 to > 60 Teeth (notation: 20T to > 60T). Whilst Cog ratios vary from 11T to > 34T. In our opinion, Shimano makes the very best rear “freewheel” (FW) cogs. However, they stopped manufacturing 11T FW 7-speed multispeeds about 10 or 15 years ago. Chinese-manufactured DNP Epoch 7-speed 11T-32T Freewheel is about the only choice available, and guaranteed – it will only last about 2000 miles/one season before needing replacement. At Kinaye, we sell instead the Shimano MF-TZ21 7-speed 14T-28T Freewheel which is still manufactured. Repeating: Shimano makes the best quality FWs around bar none.

On the Cog - 11T vs everything else

11T grants the maximum leverage upon the rear wheel, though it comes at a price: Because the tooth count is low, the cog spins very fast and it is exposed to much more wear and tear than larger cogs. It is therefore more preferential to use slightly larger cogs to increase the component lifespan – at a cost: Larger cogs means less speed advantage relative to the chainring, therefore a balance must be struck.

We can increase the size/teeth of the chainring. However, some frames prohibit larger chainring sizes. The Vector Frame is an example; the stock chainring is 46T; the frame can handle 48T and smaller, however there is physically not enough room to go larger, like on many typical mountain bikes and recumbents. Example: Resident Engineer Kingfish uses a customized setup featuring the 53T Campagnolo road racing chainring paired with a MTB DNP Epoch 11T-32T FW, and this allows him to pedal up to 38 mph.

A Better System

Keep It Simple. Two paths to resolution are…

  1. We don’t need front derailleurs and multiple chainrings; we just need one chainring, the right chainring. A single-speed however doesn’t give us enough bandwidth, so we pair with a multispeed on the rear. This is a common solution for the Vector Frame because there is no place to mount a front derailleur.
  2. Two Chainrings at the very most: High Gear (high-T) and Low Gear (low-T). Pair with a single-speed on the rear. High gear for high-speed, low-gear when if ever we need it. This solution works on just about any normal mountain bike frame.

Single Speed require a tensioner; a very inexpensive part that provides positive tension on the chain drive to prevent the chain from slipping, especially on full-suspension frames. The simplicity of a single-speed cannot be overstated. People that use single-speed need only to pedal home and have no intension of pedaling at higher speeds, or maybe the flip-side (which makes it difficult to pedal home w/o power).

Multispeed cogs require a Rear Derailleur: Shimano is the best, followed by SRAM. Multispeed is a good choice for the all-around adventurer. Tips for ratios: For the “low gear”, always consider the possibility that the battery is depleted and there’s a mountain between you and home.

  • Rear Cog Low Gear: 28T, 30T, 32T, 34T are good choices. It’s possible to find larger.
  • Rear Cog High Gear: 11T, 12T, 13T, 14T, and even 16T are good choices.

Traditional Gear Ratio Tool

Now armed with gearing information, let’s consider the options in the demonstration below. There are 5 parts…

  1. Tire Size: Our old friend again makes a difference and determines wheel RPM and Cadence.
  2. Velocity: Ebike speed, powered or otherwise; the goal is to keep up with the bike when under power at a speed that is comfortable – and realistic. Together with Tire Diameter we calculate the Wheel RPM.
  3. Chainring: Forward Gear. Typical sizes range from 32T to 48T in MtB. Going beyond that requires custom fabrication. Word of caution: Road, Recumbent, and MtB chainrings are not interchangeable – thank you Campagnolo, Shimano, and the rest: The big issues are the Bolt Circles, 4 bolts verses 5 bolts, plus Crank Axle varietal; really opens a can o’ worms.
  4. Freewheel Cog: Single or multispeed, set to the desired value. Note that the smallest toothed cogs wear out faster. Together with Chainring we calculate the Gear Ratio (R).
  5. Cadence: Pedaling Rate given as RPM. Normal Cadence between 50 to 85 RPM is good for the heart, although a fast cadence up to 100 RPM can be maintained for quite some time if in good shape. Any higher than that – and we’re flogging.
Wheel RPM: 
Gear Ratio (R): 
MPH at Cadence

Alternative to Traditional

After experimenting with the traditional settings, are we tired of being flogged trying to keep up to high-speed? At Kinaye, we have an elegant solution called the Schlumpf Drive: This particular component replaces the entire Bottom Bracket and Chainring conundrum, and instead utilizes 2-speed internal planetary gearing having 1:1 and an “overdrive” ratio of 2.5:1. It requires just one Chainring, and if sized properly – can deliver in both extremes: Depleted capacity and Full Capacity. This simplicity though also comes at a sophisticated price, although we think highly that it is worth it and offer this product as an option for our high-powered Vector Ebikes.

Let’s test the affects of the Schlumpf Drive using exactly the same settings from the interactive tool above. Go on, try it, you’ll like it. The same 5 parameters apply – except we now have High and Low Gear settings.

MPH at Cadence
High MPH

Again, we believe the value of the Schlumpf Drive is apparent and are proud to offer it as an option.

Final Words

We feel the drivetrain is the most underutilized component of an ebike, yet the most important feature should the battery become depleted. Without pedals, it’s not an ebike. Without pedaling, why bother with a bike? Pedaling is useful, so let’s make the most of it and augment/extend our physical abilities to overcome and “level” hills, and to provide greater range.

On a personal note, it used to be that as a pedestrian, riding 5 to 10 miles in a day was about all that I wanted to do. Now, with the ebike, 20 to 30 miles is easily common, and can be achieved in less than an hour. Hills melt away. Frontiers open up. Park the car; go for a ride. Enjoy clean living. Aggressive riders can do even better; I once took a job in Seattle just so I could ride my 2WD ebike – 56 mile round trip through urban traffic and it was a frippen joy. Join us - It can be done.

Thanks for taking the time to read this compendium. Actually we have a lot more to say, though not just here. Tell us how we’re doing: Facebook/LinkedIn likes works well enough.

Thanks for listening. Stay tuned. Safe travels.